THE QUARTERBOARD
Friday's Shop counted a seconds rack: 24 pairs at Frank's, 65 at Nicks, and a mismatched packer boot for a left foot half a size longer than the right. This week I nearly published a correction that was itself wrong, and the reason is worth more than the profile it was attached to.
On the board this week: Opie Way, Landrum, South Carolina
Here is the sequence. Opie Way's own About page says the sneakers are "designed, created and cut/sewn in house in our small North Carolina factory, where we employ incredible people here in our hometown." Their apprenticeship page advertises for "a shoe-maker apprentice in our Asheville factory." Their careers page wants a sewer and a leather cutter in the Hendersonville and Asheville area. The mailing address in their privacy policy is in Fletcher, North Carolina. Four pages, one state, and our board had them filed under South Carolina.
So I went to correct our board. Then I looked for the thing the site does not mention anywhere, which is the flood.
On September 27, 2024, Hurricane Helene put roughly six feet of water through the Opie Way factory in Fletcher, North Carolina, a few minutes from the Asheville airport. Garden and Gun reported on April 23, 2025 that "Opie Way will open a new factory this spring in Landrum, South Carolina, about an hour south of Asheville." Faherty, who sell a collaboration with them, still say it on the live collection page today: "In 2024, Opie Way lost their factory and machinery in the wake of Hurricane Helene. In 2025, Opie Way rebuilt in Landrum, South Carolina."
Our board was right. Their website is out of date, and Fletcher is not a second address, it is the building the river went through. Opie Way had a page at /pages/helene telling that story and it now returns a 404. Their blog is a row of empty theme placeholders. One sneaker page promises delivery on 5/26 and another says its order window closes on 2/28, both dates long past. This is a five-person shoe factory that lost its machines and rebuilt in another state, and updating the About page is not what you do first. I have not asked them, and everything above comes off pages anyone can open.
I want to be careful about what this does and does not prove. It does not prove there is nothing left in North Carolina, and a careers ad naming the Hendersonville and Asheville labour market is what you would write for a Landrum factory anyway, since the two are a short drive apart. What it does prove is that on this maker, a third party's dated sentence beat the maker's own homepage, and that this newsletter's house rule of trusting the page over the press had a boundary it had not met before.
The correction we did owe, and it was the other one
Open the Men's CV and the spec runs four lines. Upper: waterproof suede from Opera Tannery, Italy. Lining: vegetable-tanned leather from Ecopell. Sole: an Italian Margom rubber cupsole. Laces: glazed cotton by American Legacy, made in North Carolina. That last line is worth pausing on, because five listings contain the string "Made in North Carolina" and on every one of them it is the laces talking, not the shoe. The shoe's own sentence names no state at all: "Meticulously crafted by hand in our small American factory."
American factory, Italian leather, both printed on the page, neither hidden. Under our own labels that is disclosed nuance rather than fully US-made, the same call already made on Tellason and on Rancourt. Opie Way's registry row moved this morning and the public page is already live with it. Nothing about their factory changed and nothing they wrote was misleading. Our label was at the wrong altitude, and it took reading the spec block rather than the About page to see it.
Buy first: the Men's CV in Cement and Gum, $398, with all eight sizes live, 7 through 14. Read the last line of the description before you click, because it says "This model is pre-order. Lead time 6 weeks." Nineteen of their 29 footwear listings have every size showing as available, so a full size run here means the queue is open rather than that a shipment landed. → opieway.com
One more thing before you order. Twenty-five of those 29 footwear listings disclose a preorder or a lead time somewhere in the description. Only 18 say so in the title. Seven warn you in the description alone, and the CV I just recommended is one of the seven. Not one listing does the reverse, so the description is the complete signal and the title is a partial one, and the button reads Add to cart on all 25 pairs you can actually buy. My matching rule, so you can rerun it: the words preorder, pre-order, lead time, made to order, or "ships in N weeks", searched in the product description only, across the 29 listings left after removing the gift card, the re-sole service, two socks, two laces, a beanie and a gym bag.
If six weeks is too long, the CV in Olive is the only listing that says "In stock," at $398, in sizes 11, 12 and 13. The James Court Lo 250th Anniversary Edition is down to a single size 11 at $448.
This week's picks
Five items, each checked this morning for price, live sizes and an origin claim on the product page itself. None ran in the Aug 25 Board or the Aug 28 Shop.
🇺🇸 Wellfleet Rollneck Sweater by Whalerknits, Fall River, Massachusetts ($179). The spec line reads "Origin: knit in Fall River, MA," and the page adds "Designed, knit, cut, and sewn in Fall River, Massachusetts, at Fall River Knitting Mill" and guarantees it for life. Twenty-one of 28 size and colour combinations are live, XXS through XXL, and one of the four colours is Nantucket Red. → whalerknits.com
🇺🇸 Nantucket Red Weekender Bag by Steele Canvas Basket Corp, Wilmington, Massachusetts ($179.95). Leather grip handles, an adjustable shoulder strap, two inside pockets, 18 by 11 by 11 inches. The spec panel has a Country of Origin field and it reads "Made in USA," which is more than most bag pages commit to. In stock. → steelecanvas.com
Disclosed nuance: the Merino Field Sock by American Trench, Philadelphia ($28). The page says "Knit in the USA of imported materials" and describes the mill as a North Carolina factory. Both halves on one page, no asterisk to hunt for. Sizes are the limit here: L and XL only, in charcoal, light grey, plum and steel blue. → americantrench.com
🇺🇸 Sailor Knot Coasters, set of four by Mystic Knotwork, Mystic, Connecticut ($28.75). The listing says "Made in the USA by hand in Mystic, Connecticut" and calls them absorbent, unbreakable and washable, "handmade here in America for over 60 years." All 18 colours are available. → mysticknotwork.com
🇺🇸 CAPT. COOKED Snapback by The Ampal Creative, Los Angeles ($48). The product page says "Made in Los Angeles, CA." Their site banner separately claims Made in USA across the whole store, and the banner is not what earned this a flag. The line on the product page is. → theampalcreative.com
Where the deals went
Friday's Shop was the boot seconds rack, with the sizes that were actually left in each one: the-boot-seconds-rack-where-your-size-is-in-stock.
Worth knowing
A Made In America badge is a site setting, not a claim. All 37 of Opie Way's listings carry one above the buy button. So does the $100 gift card. So does the $80 re-sole service, which is a repair you post to them. Nothing about the badge is dishonest and nothing is wrong with using one, but it is switched on at the theme level and it cannot say anything about the item underneath it. The sentence in the description can. I am spending a paragraph on this because my own first count of this catalogue treated the badge as evidence and produced a number that meant nothing.
The one that is fully American, and you cannot buy it. Opie Way's black Canvas Hi lists its materials down to the thread: 10 oz Pioneer Duck canvas from Mt Vernon Mills, lined with more Mt Vernon cotton, a Horween leather sidewall, milled calfskin at the toe, cotton twill tape woven in South Carolina, A&E bonded nylon stitching and North Carolina laces, and their line for it is "Made from start to finish in USA." Mt Vernon Mills is the same company that took in the White Oak Draper looms from the WiesMade issue, though this page does not say which of its plants the canvas comes from. The Canvas Hi is sold out in all seven sizes.
Every item above was verified for country of origin this week, September 1, 2026. The whole board is public and searchable at registry.quarterboard.co, every maker labeled and dated. No brand paid to appear. Some links may become affiliate links; that never changes what gets picked.
P.S. If you have ever ordered a preorder from a small shop and it arrived when they said it would, tell me which shop. I would like to run a list of the ones that hit their own dates.
Until next time,
quarterboard.co · @quarterboardco
