THE QUARTERBOARD

Last week the board was about a mill that could tell you who built the machine that sewed your sweater. It could not tell you where the yarn was spun, and I said so in print. This week, the other half of that question.

On the board this week: WiesMade, Petaluma, California 🇺🇸

Start with a number, and it is WiesMade's own: less than 3% of clothing sold in the USA is made here, and of that 3%, only a fraction is made with fabric and fiber sourced here too. Almost every "Made in USA" tag you will ever flip is describing the last step, the sewing. The cotton crossed an ocean before it got to the machine.

WiesMade is built to be inside the fraction. Their line reads "From farm to fabric our line is farmed, milled & sewn in the USA," and unlike most brands making that noise, they say what sits behind it: American grown cotton, combed and ring spun. Denim woven at a mill they describe as 175 years old, in this country. A family run wool farm and a family run knit mill. Cut and sewn in a family run shop in Los Angeles.

The label is Nic's, a third generation Bay Area local working out of Petaluma, twenty plus years in the industry and San Francisco denim roots behind him. It started in a barn repurposed as a design studio. It reads less like a brand launch than like someone who knew exactly which links in the chain had gone missing and went looking for the ones still standing.

What makes them unusual is one click deep, and I nearly missed it. Their About page talks in countries, not addresses, and if you stop there you would conclude they are being vague. Go onto the product pages instead and they name almost the entire chain out loud:

  • Broken twill denim and canvas from Mount Vernon Mills in Georgia, which they date to 175 years old.

  • Selvedge denim from Vidalia Mills in Louisiana, woven on vintage Draper looms.

  • Wool "spun, dyed and finished on a family farm in Nebraska," and chore coat linings of 100% wool from American Woolen Mills.

  • Brass buttons and rivets made in Georgia on the jeans. Buttons made in Connecticut on the blazers. Belts of American latigo leather, and small goods in Horween leather.

  • "Cut and sewn in our family run shop in Los Angeles, California."

That is a bill of materials with places on it rather than a marketing gesture, and I do not know another apparel brand on this board that publishes one. There is a nice circularity in it too: American Woolen is already on the registry in its own right, a Connecticut mill weaving in its own building. One maker on the board is buying from another.

Now the part that made me stop, because two of those names are in the middle of becoming one name.

Those Draper looms in Louisiana are the looms that came out of White Oak when Cone Mills closed in 2017, and for a few years Vidalia Mills ran them. Vidalia is gone. Its land, buildings and equipment were auctioned in April 2025 against roughly $32.5 million of debt, and in October Mount Vernon Mills announced it had acquired the 45 White Oak Drapers with a partner and was moving them to its plant in Trion, Georgia, with weaving expected to start this year. So the Georgia mill that weaves WiesMade's broken twill now owns the Louisiana looms that wove their selvedge.

That is not trivia if you are shopping. Every raw Vidalia selvedge piece on their site is sold out this morning: the Sam and Sidney raw fits at $278, the washed Sidney at $338, the selvedge ball cap at $86. The only Vidalia denim still in stock is the Nico Chore Coat at $498. If you wanted selvedge woven on those looms while they were still in Louisiana, that window has shut, and nothing on their pages tells you so.

Two things I owe you before the buy line. They say American grown cotton but never say which state grows it, and that is the last unnamed link in the chain. And I have not spoken to WiesMade: everything above comes from their own pages, read this morning, while the loom story comes from the auction record and the trade press. Checked, not audited.

Read the product page, not the About page. The About page would have earned WiesMade a shrug from me this morning. The product pages earned them the top of the board.

Buy first: Scout Jean, denim military pant, $248 → wiesmade.com

This week's picks: the first week of August

  • 🇺🇸 American Trail Cadillac Mountain Light Targeted Cushion by Farm to Feet, Mount Airy, NC ($25). The theme of this issue, in a sock. Their claim is "100% MADE IN THE USA," and they spell out what that covers: "From carefully sourced American wool to expert knitting." US materials, US manufacturing, US workers, all three named on the same line. Whalerknits could not tell me where their yarn was spun; Farm to Feet at least names the country the wool comes from, which is a step further than most get. → farmtofeet.com

  • 🇺🇸 New Mexican by Aurora Shoe Co., King Ferry, NY ($186). "Handmade in Aurora, NY," from "simple cuts of leather and minimal stitching," by a shop that says it works "By sourcing materials locally and making all of our products in-house." A flat, plain, unfussy summer shoe. One thing their catalogue does not say out loud and I will: the New Mexican runs on women's sizing, 5 through 10. The men's shoe in the same spirit is the Middle English at $238. → aurorashoeco.com

  • Disclosed nuance: 1883 Bengal Stripe Oxford by Hamilton Shirts, Houston, TX (from $315). Hamilton has been cutting shirts in Houston since 1883, and these are "cut and sewn by hand in Houston from the world's finest fabrics." Read that last phrase closely, because it is doing honest work: Hamilton tells you where the shirt was made and makes no claim at all about where the cloth came from. That is the ordinary case, not a red flag, and it is exactly the distinction this week's feature is about. Which is why it is here without a flag on it. → hamiltonshirts.com

  • US-made line: Market Tote by Duluth Pack, Duluth, MN (from $104.95). Sewn in the same city since 1882, and their line is "Each Duluth Pack-manufactured item is crafted in Duluth, MN, by our friends and neighbors." The qualifier is theirs and it is fair: the shop also carries goods it does not build, so buy the Duluth Pack branded item and you are buying the Minnesota one. Lifetime guarantee on craftsmanship and hardware. The canvas bag you take to the farmers market for the next thirty Augusts. → duluthpack.com

  • 🇺🇸 Nautical Monkey Fist Bottle Stopper by Mystic Knotwork, Mystic, CT ($22.50). Their own product page says it plainly, which is all I ask of anyone: "Made in the USA by hand in Mystic, Connecticut." Tied in a shop where the style came down from the founder's grandparents. Twenty two fifty, lands in August, and it is the thing guests pick up off the counter and ask about. → mysticknotwork.com

Where the deals went

The Sale Wire lives in Friday's issue. Last Friday's Shop was five American boots sitting in stock, led by the Rancourt outlet, plus JK Boots, Easymoc, Truman, Frank's and Nick's factory seconds. Catch it → The Shop: five American boots in stock this morning

Worth knowing

The second name worth having, and the catch inside it. Zkano knits socks at a family mill in Fort Payne, Alabama, from organic cotton grown in west Texas and dyed in North Carolina. Grown, dyed, knit, all domestic, which is a genuinely closed loop and rare at $21 a pair. But look at the same shop's merino wool socks at $28 and the picture changes, because merino is a different supply chain entirely and their cotton claim does not stretch to cover it. This is the trap in reading any maker: the claim usually belongs to a line, not to the company. Same shop, same bench, two different answers, exactly like Nantucket Reds and the M Crest line back in Issue 4.

"Made in USA" and "made with American fiber" are not the same claim, and only one of them is regulated tightly. A garment can carry Made in USA on the strength of where it was cut and sewn. Where the cotton grew is a separate question that most tags never answer, and most brands never volunteer. So when a label goes out of its way to say farmed and milled as well as sewn, it is claiming something harder than the usual four words, and it is worth checking rather than assuming. The reverse is also true, and it is the fairer point: a brand sewing in America with imported fabric is usually not dodging anything. The domestic spinning and weaving base mostly went away, and there is not always a US mill left to buy from.

Every item above was verified for country of origin this week, August 4, 2026. The whole board is public and searchable at registry.quarterboard.co, every maker labeled and dated. No brand paid to appear. Some links may become affiliate links; that never changes what gets picked.

P.S. This one came straight from a reader. Someone asked on Reddit whether anybody does American fabric and not just American sewing, and WiesMade was their example. If you know another label that can name the farm and not just the factory, reply and tell me. That is a short list and I would like it to be longer.

Until next time,

quarterboard.co · @quarterboardco

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